Unsettling Times on Ancient Paths

One of the problems with visiting somewhere like Cornwall is that, in addition to the stunning natural beauty which I could happily just bask in, there is too much interesting stuff to see, and only so much time. Ah problems, problems…

What might actually be a problem is that my stomach is feeling a little iffy today (possibly, but not conclusively, related to a quantity of bourbon consumed last night). There is nothing for it, I will just have to venture out and see how it goes.

First stop today, St. Michael’s Mount. I’ve always wanted to visited here - clearly so much that I wanted to savour the anticipation for 60 years! It doesn’t disappoint and looks spectacular from all angles (especially with the sun cooperating). Of course I have timed it perfectly to cross the causeway due to my deep understanding of the Cornish tidal situation.

Obviously the castle and gardens are closed at this time of year, but you can wander around the village. Must be an interesting place to live - especially when the tourists are gone and and the island is cut off.

There is a school party touring the island too, but they are pretty well behaved and quiet. There seems to be a blanket of calm and peace over the island even with lots of people around. A very similar vibe to what I experienced around Holy Island.

There is quite an interesting alignment of sites related to St. Michael. Maybe I should do a grand tour?

Wandering around Marazion, I spot a plant which has managed to find a foot(root?)hold despite all the odds.

This gets me musing on how life always finds a way until my revery is interrupted by an overly lively stomach and I have to beat a hasty retreat to a local Sainsbury’s to make use of the facilities.

Suitably unburdened, I return to my itinerary and the attempt to cram as much in as possible. Next stop the Madron Well and chapel. the well apparently has healing properties which I seem to be in the market for.

As with many of these places, they tend to be a little hard to find - and that’s just to find somewhere nearby to park. In this case there is also a long, isolated track to negotiate too. All well and good and I am unphased by the spookily creaking trees. I am slightly more disturbed when I round a bend and am faced with two large, black dogs just standing on the path staring at me with no owner in sight. I am put in mind of a scene from the Omen. We stare each other down for a few moments before they come bounding towards me but turn out to be less of the slavering, rabid variety and more of the bound up and give you a muddy pawing variety. I am none the worse for wear (muddy pawprints notwithstanding) when the owner turns up 4 or 5 minutes later. I’m tempted to let him know that he almost had an additional human scooping job to add to his usual canine duties.

Path clear, I forge ahead. I’m not sure if I actually made it to the well. There is a spring, which I think is the spot, but am disinclined to wade through the stream and thick mud to explore the other side. Clearly the visiting neopagans had the same thought and left their ribbon offerings on this side. If it’s good enough for them, it’s good enough for me!

And so onwards for a whistlestop tour of other ancient sites:

Men-an-Tol

Lanyon Quoit

Boscawen-Un Stone Circle

Merry Maiden’s Stone Circle

Men-an-Tol is another place of supposed healing power, although I believe that the routine is to pass though the circle multiple times in a particular direction. I settled for leaning on it but am in fact feeling much better now!

At Boscawen-un, I have to contend with some chap who has settled down to eat his sandwich’s whilst (and I’m not quite sure how he managed this) spewing forth an incessant stream of banal drivel at his companion. Not quite in keeping with the atmosphere of the place I thought, but each to their own. I move on.

The next morning, I completely fail to get up to watch the lunar eclipse. Well that is not strictly true. I didn’t so much fail as just didn’t. I had been contemplating it after hearing the the view might be quite good in the south west as it would be visible low on the western horizon. A brief check the previous evening establishes that the waterfront at Penzance is facing east, so I would have to get up and drive somewhere. The enthusiasm leaves me.

Regardless, I am still up in good time as I have unfinished business with Tintagel Castle to attend to and am hoping to squeeze in a trip to St. Nectan’s Glen on the way.

St. Nectan’s Glen is a beautiful, serene spot, not far from Tintagel, with a very pleasant walk through woods along a stream culminating in St. Nectan’s Waterfall at the end. Although it is free to walk to the glen, there is an entry fee for the waterfall. Well worth it though as I seemed to have been the first one there and had it to myself. I was almost tempted to back out when one of the staff was talking me though the need to wade through the stream to get to the waterfall and suggested it was probably best to just go barefoot. Not in this temperature! She did point out that I could turn back at any point up until a turnstile, but I was clearly not going to do that, especially with waterproof shoes - even if the water was about ankle deep.

The walk to the waterfall and back took slightly longer than expected to I had to get a shift on for my timed appointment at Tintagel.

I’m glad I took the trouble to come back as it was well worth the visit (although knowing that the castle was closed at the beginning of the week because they are doing maintenance on the bridge, hearing power tools at work as you cross it is a little disconcerting).

Although the real star of the show is the spectacular Cornish coastline

And then nothing left to do but psych myself up for the long drive home. I had a brief twinge of guilt when I realised that I hadn’t consumed a single pasty all week, but an overly generous hotel breakfast meant that an early pasty lunch was not on the cards.

So leaving Cornwall, I am once again reminded that although the British countryside may not be as spectacular as the scenery in some countries, it is still beautiful in any season. And of course Britain has a wealth of ancient, mysterious and sacred sites to visit. Go see it!