The words of Keats’ poem “To Autumn” start drifting through my mind as I cruise into a mist filled explosion of colours that is the Forest of Dean in autumn. Now this comes as something of a surprise to me as I hadn’t thought that any of my GCSE English Literature had actually taken and that the only memory of it was a lingering resentment that we had been forced to endure Cider with Rosie when we could have been studying Brave New World. Go figure.
I am on my way to Puzzlewood - an ancient woodland and past iron mining location (apparently the Romans got most of their iron nails to build forts from the Forest of Dean ← fun fact), characterised by moss-covered rock formations called scowles. It’s a beautiful spot, albeit somewhat treacherous as the mist has nicely dampened the uneven rock steps to the extent that far too much attention has to be paid to negotiating those rather than the fantastic, if befuddling, surroundings.
The paths twist, turn and cross on multiple levels. I don’t know whether this maze-like quality is the reason for the name, but it makes the wood seem bigger than it is. Apparently this was a favourite spot of Tolkein and was the basis for the forests of Middle Earth, and it’s otherworldly quality has been used in numerous films and series over the years.
The constant forking of the path reminds me of one of my favourite Yogi Berra quotes: “When you come to a fork in the path, take it”. Of course the rule for misanthropic meandering is: “When you come to a fork in the path, assess which fork has no one on it , and take that”. I do so.
And as another indication that Puzzlewood is lost in time…
That’s another one ticked off the list. I briefly contemplate heading to the Skirrid, but decide to leave any major walking for tomorrow and head instead to Raglan Castle. This is a fairly spectacular place and apparently was known for its sumptuous wealth and epic entertaining during it’s heyday, before going into rapid decline after picking the wrong side in the Civil War. Oops.
Apparently it was still courting royal favour when the hereditary keepers of the castle held a feast here to celebrate the investiture of King Charles as the Prince of Wales in 1969.
Of course I am particularly pleased with my visit to Raglan as the entry fee, which I don’t pay, is £10 and so that is two months’ worth of my CSSC membership. Gotta keep that ROI going!
Now it is too early to check in at the hotel in Monmouth yet, so I scan Google maps for other interesting places to go and spot what looks like a good viewpoint over the Wye Valley which might be worth a visit. A short drive and hike takes me to the Eagle’s Nest Viewpoint and it does indeed give a fine view over the Wye, out to the Severn and the various bridges, Chepstow Racecourse etc. Somebody’s dog took exception to my interrupting its owner’s cigarette break, but other than that, a very pleasant spot.
Now I had also spotted on the map that there were some standing stones nearby and so will clearly need to visit those (although I manged to somehow pass them by on my way into Monmouth). The Harold’s Stones Row. Named in honour of a battle victory by King Harold (just prior to getting a kicking from William the Conqueror), which is odd as the stones predate him by several millennia. British History is just plain confusing!
When I looked at the map later, it seems that the location of the stones (a small village called Trellech), also has a Virtuous Well, a Lost City of Trellech (I believe that this is an archaeological site uncovering what was the largest town in Medieval Wales - unclear whether it can be visited) and the Trellech Tump. I have no idea what a Tump is but I very much want to visit now. There may have to be some adjustment to tomorrow’s plans.
And so on to Monmouth and the welcoming embrace of the Premier Inn. The town itself looks very pleasant when I go out foraging for food a little later…
Into the Brecon Beacons tomorrow hopefully…
After the Tump of course!