On the Edge
Of Land, Nerves and the Tourist Bubble
On the way to the car this morning, I catch a view which I had managed to completely miss somehow on the way in to Penzance yesterday: St Michael’s Mount, looking magnificent.
But that is for tomorrow when the tides are more favourable (yes, I know all about the tides for the whole of Cornwall, if nothing else).
Today begins with a (time constrained - bah!) trip to the Minack Theatre. This is a spectacular (and functional) amphitheatre carved out of the rock of a windswept cliff - largely by one very dedicated woman and a few helpers. It is a spectacular setting even in the rain, but I imagine that seeing a play here with the sun setting would be amazing. Although, looking at the seats, you would really want to bring a cushion with you!
I was as sure footed as a mountain goat despite the slippery surfaces, sporting my new Salomon shoes. This was a pro tip from Ethan (demonstrated conclusively in Svalbard), and I duly upgraded my comfortable, if grip-shy Merrels. (yes, I am open to the concept of sponsorship!)
On the way to the Minack Theatre, I spot a standing stone in a field (reference previous comments on density of ancient stuff in Cornwall) , pull over and hop into the field for a look. As I approach it, a rainbow appears very cooperatively from a photographic perspective.
A short distance from the Minack Theatre is the Museum of Global Communications. One for us tech nerds thinks I. Hobgoblin says, “No”. Only open Saturday, Sunday and Monday this time of year. Natch.
Still, as I have parked, I decide to have a wander and at least can see the outside of the cable hut. This is where many telegraph cables from around the world came ashore in Britain, which is fairly cool. There is a small white pyramid somewhere which marks the point where the first transatlantic cable came ashore and marking the spot of the original hut. I do go in search of it, but there are many branching paths, none of which seem to lead to it. I then catch a view from a distance but felt that the ROI on actually trying to reach it again is insufficient. And it has started raining. Sturdy footwear will live to fight another day.
Near that cable hut I spot something which suggests that this might also be a training site for Virgin Media cable layers…
And so on to Land’s End.
I arrive at the “official” Land’s End expecting to be fleeced for parking but no, the first 20 minutes is free. That will be sufficient for the few photo ops, I have no need to visit any of the tourist “attractions”. Cue power walk to the edge.
Enough of that.
I’m heading on to Cape Cornwall, which the National Trust Website bills as “the connoisseur's Land's End”. Is it possible that this is not an impartial review but a call to get people to stuff the coffers of the National Trust with parking fees? Clearly I will have to find out.
Turns out to be true - it’s a much more pleasant spot than Land’s End.
I have a fleeting urge to climb to the pillar, but it passes and I content myself with gazing back at the “official” Land’s End and basking in my moral superiority!
I have to say that driving around Cornwall is an exciting experience. Generally when there are really narrow roads I’m a little uncomfortable (largely due to my complete lack of ability to reverse down winding lanes if required) and end up arriving at destinations tensed like a coiled spring. Can’t be healthy for a man of my age. I find this much less of a problem in Cornwall, where everyone seems pretty friendly and accommodating - I guess you learn to live with it, but it must be a nightmare in summer.
My next destination ups the ante somewhat. It’s one of those situations where the road keeps narrowing down to a mud covered track, barely wide enough for my car, and you start to think that you have definitely taken a wrong turn and nothing good awaits you. I refer the reader to a previous post. Still, this isn’t Wales and, after one final impossibly tight turn, a small parking area comes into view.
I am so far off the tourist track now that it almost comes as a shock when I encounter a couple at the site. This is Carn Euny, an iron age village. It is one of the better preserved villages from that time and was apparently occupied from 400BC until AD400. Not a bad innings! Almost makes me feel young…
