Dunes & Loons
The sublime and the ridiculous ... but which is which?
An auspicious start to the day as a 7 hour time difference and an early kick off to the Everton game allowed me to bask in the glorious victory of Everton’s last game at Goodison before setting off for the day. But you don’t care about that.
Today I am continuing the trek south. One of the things I really enjoy about trips to the States is driving through breath-taking, majestic landscapes. This was not that. At least for the first 60 miles or so of the southbound I25 I am surrounded by flat, dull landscape punctuated only by the occasional grim industrial town.
Well that was almost all. As I am speeding south I catch a glimpse of some stone constructions, some bearing a passing resemblance to Stonehenge. Had there been a handy exit, I would have tried to get across to the other side of the interstate to take a look. Some later research shows that it was this:
I didn’t feel to bad about missing it. The one I visited last summer was more impressive, but I think there are a few other replicas too - and of course the car henge (although if I am going to be pedantic, and I am, I would point out that a henge is the earth work mound and not the stones). Still.
Anyway, a bit further south and the scenery starts to improve - normal business is resumed - especially as I start heading up into the mountains. I am on my way to Bishop Castle, nestled in the forest at about 9000 feet. This is the vision of one man and he has been building it since 1969! Regular followers of my travels will know that this is just the sort of thing that I love, so could not let the opportunity pass.
I was well rewarded. This is an amazing achievement and an absolutely stunning sight. It’s particularly impressive as (according to some of the signs around) Jim Bishop has been fighting legal battles for years as the local authorities have tried to close him down. It has also been built entirely with donations.
It’s great that he allows people to wander around (there is no charge but obviously donations are welcome, and I’m not sure how anyone who has seen it could fail to donate). Some of the mesh walkways and spiral staircases don’t feel entirely sturdy but, to be fair, it is made abundantly clear at the entrance that this is a work in progress and you enter at your own risk. And honestly, why would you not take the risk? Although, Betty Boop as an angel? Best not to ask.
I am almost reluctant to leave, but I have other business today and a fair way to drive as I am off to take a look at Great Sand Dunes National Park.
As I mentioned, the scenery gets steadily better and my spirits are definitely rising today (maybe just the jet lag wearing off, but maybe getting back in touch with the reasons I like to travel). As I turn onto the approach road to Great Sand Dunes, I am greeted with one of those iconic American road pictures - an arrow straight road across a prairie pointing directly at a stunning, snow covered peak. A few instances of tumbleweed drifting across the road inexplicably further raises my spirits. Suddenly I remember the joy of the open road. Road trip is most definitely on!
Then the sand Dunes come into view and I have to pull over for a look/photo from a distance.
As I get closer the true scale becomes apparent. Some of these dunes are 750 feet high! I set out towards them with a vague idea of climbing at least some of the lesser dunes. Given the difficulty of walking through the sand on the flat, trying this on an incline seems like a probably route to an untimely death. I will make do with walking to base camp of one of the lower Dunes. The views are sufficient from there - so otherworldly that I could imagine that I was on Arrakis and almost felt compelled to do the Fremen sand walk to avoid summoning a sand worm…
…apologies for the sudden nerding out there, but I’m sure that most of the people who know me will understand the reference - or even most people generally, now that Hollywood has made it acceptable.
Although some hardy souls did make it to the top.
I’m not sure what it was like at the top but it was getting very windy at the lower level, and I consider it prudent to beat a retreat before the sand blasting results in a bone-deep exfoliation.
As I am driving away, this seems like a wise choice as the whole area is then engulfed in driving sand.
And onwards to Amolosa and another budget hotel. I am deliberately trying to go with budget accommodation (other than a few places where I have splashed out) to get a feel for how cheaply this could be done. To be fair, most US chain hotel and motels are acceptable. That said, one that I was looking at this morning (rated 9 stars, “Wonderful” on Expedia), I actually drove past and it just seemed to have a group of drunks sat outside, so relying on ratings is a little random.
Needless to say, my home for the evening was more or less acceptable, but clearly on the wrong side of town/the tracks/the river. This meant that there was no convenient brew pub for dinner, and so I drove to Burger King in the knowledge that they will do a veggie burger, unlike some other chains who shall remain nameless. To be fair, Americans do love their meat. So much so that the guy serving me in BK felt compelled to warn me that my Impossible Burger was plant-based, in case I had ordered it by mistake. Now that’s service!
Certainly seems to be!
It looks to be going well. It really is wide angle lens country!