There are large parts of the US (mainly the midwestern states) which are, somewhat disparagingly, referred to as the Flyover States. This is because, rightly or wrongly, they are considered to have little of interest and so the bulk of people fly over them between coasts and to get to the good stuff.
Now, my little detour to the House on the Rock is taking me through 4 of these: Minnesota, Wisconsin, Iowa and Nebraska, so I will find out for myself. On the way to the House, Minnesota and Wisconsin seemed pleasant enough. Not blessed with the spectacular natural beauty of some of the western states, but pleasant enough and all of the towns that I drove through were very attractive.
One town in Wisconsin seemed to have a reasonable population of Amish people and had provided (much in the way that you would bike lanes), Amish lanes of sand and gravel at the edge of the road for pony and traps to ride along. Very civilized and adds a bit of interest.
Now heading back in the other direction, I am passing through Iowa and Nebraska. I’m looking for interesting places to stop to break the journey. It is a challenge. Sadly, I overshot the Future Birth Place of James T. Kirk before I realised it was a thing. That is so typically American: that a tourist attraction could be made around the future birth of a fictional character. Don’t get me wrong, if I had been nearby I would have been there! Finding other stuff to do might be my version of the Kobayashi Maru. One for the nerds there.
Landscape wise, Iowa was fairly pleasant rolling hills and endless farmland. Nebraska is a beast of another sort. Imagine Lincolnshire expanded to fill the whole of England and Scotland. Mind numbing.
I will definitely need some distraction. Luckily, I am a master of finding stuff to visit that no normal person would bother with.
First stop, Council Bluffs in Iowa to visit the Squirrel Cage Jail. This is a three storey, rotating prison. Apparently rotating prisons had a moment. I’m not sure whether this was for efficiency of loading them up or an early attempt at a panopticon - just rotate to check up on what inmates are doing…
Whatever the case, it is a fairly grim place and still has a whiff of despair about it. I almost feel dirty as I leave. The solitary confinement cell is horrifying - standing room only. Apparently intended as a short term cool down cell, the longest someone was left in there was 10 days!
Another 150 miles or so and another stop is in order. I have found the Bigfoot Crossroads of America Museum. This, as these places so often are, is very much a small scale, DIY passion project. I am the only visitor and so get a personal tour from the proprietor, Harriet the Bigfoot Lady (that’s not me labelling her, that’s how she introduced herself).
We chatted for a good hour or so. Those who followed my travels last year may remember that I met another Bigfoot enthusiast in Washington last year, Tom Sewid (who Harriet knows of course - I guess the paths of this community cross quite often). I find it fascinating talking to people who have had encounters. There is no hyperbole involved, just a matter of fact retelling of their experiences which is very compelling. Of course I am all in on the Squatch so it is pretty much pushing at an open door! She mentions her annual conference. I am very tempted…
Harriet had a new angle on things. Apparently bigfoot likes to plait! This is new to me. She showed me lots of examples of braiding of horses manes and tails which had apparently been done by sasquatch. There is also a trend of shredding and braiding flags (and if you have visited the States you will realise that flags are everywhere). This seems very un-American, but I guess bigfoot is unburdened by such considerations. Oh yes, and Harriet is a cousin of Buffalo Bill.
Anyway, braiding aside, if you doubt the existence of bigfoot, take it up with Vladimir Putin. Apparently he is a believer.
Final full day and I continue my drive back towards Denver. Into Nebraska and as mentioned above the landscape takes a turn for the duller. Its not as though Iowa was all that interesting, but this is next level.
Obviously you have the usual driving games of trying to keep at constant speed and not use the pedals, involving optimizing the moment when you pull out to overtake, before the radar braking tries to match your speed to the vehicle in front. Yes, this is what passes for entertainment in Nebraska. I suspect others are playing their own games. Because everyone uses cruise control, speed differentials are often quite small and it sometimes takes miles to actually overtake someone. Which is fine except on occasions you can be fairly sure that as you pull alongside someone, they just nudge the cruise up 1 or 2 mph. Very childish but we all have to combat the boredom.
It’s too much, so I pull over for some relief at Fort Cody Trading Post in North Platte (partly through boredom and partly because Harriet had suggested it yesterday). It’s a fake fort built in the sixties, but the shop is quite entertaining. The theme is Buffalo Bill who seems to be claimed by both North Platte in Nebraska and Cody, Wyoming. And apparently is buried on a mountain near Denver.
It also has a “Muffler Man”. These are large figures (popular in the 60s and 70s) to attract drivers to pull over. “Muffler Man” because they were often used by auto repair shops apparently. Anyway, this one was bought when the fort was built and dragged across the interstate to its new home.
The distraction can only last so long and I have to hit the road again.
About 30 or so miles further on, I cross from Central Time into Mountain Time and get an hour back. This is strangely depressing. I can’t help but think that no one needs an extra hour in Nebraska.
Overwhelmed once more by the soporific that is Nebraska, I pull off again to visit the Boot Hill Cemetery. Not the original Boot Hill you understand. That is in Hays, Kansas. Not either of the two famous Boot Hills in Dodge City or Tombstone. Just a Boot Hill Cemetery. This is what I have been reduced to.
There is only so much time I can spend here so I look for a hotel for the night, within striking distance of Denver and then set off.
At one point my spirits lift as the endless flat farm land gradually gives way to rolling prairie. Perhaps Nebraska isn’t all bad. Of course then I remember that I have already crossed back into Colorado!
Ah well, no harm to wind down a month of non-stop excitement with a day of mindless tedium I suppose!
Not a bad idea to get to the hotel early either as some severe thunderstorms move in. I know it is a low chance but, looking at the weather forecast, I can’t help thinking that even 2% chance of tornadoes is too much!
Probably going to need a holiday after all of this.
No updates for a while did the 2% twisters get you? 😊