Bombs, Bobble Heads and Bijou Rivers

Today I am heading into New Mexico to soak up some history - Puebloan, Scientific and UFO related. But first I am going to take a look the Rio Grande Gorge.

En route, I am stuck at a road works for a period of time and am amused by the cattle truck in front of me.

It seems somehow appropriate that a truck full of cows should have a registration of Dazy. It’s these little moments that keep one entertained on the road.

Shortly before I get to the gorge, I see a collection of very interesting looking houses built half into the land. I pull over to take a look. It turns out that this is Earthship. I had heard of this but had no idea it was here - just another of those happy random discoveries on the road. Earthship is a town of eco houses, built with recycled materials and entirely self-sustaining. They have a small visitor centre so I head in to look at some of the displays. I know it is a prudent and remarkably low impact way to live, but to my mind, they are entirely too proud of growing their food supply with waste water. Had there been a cafe, I would be avoiding the salad.

On to the gorge and the mighty Rio Grande. Although not so much. The gorge was quite impressive but the Rio definitely looked not so Grande.

Then to the main business of the day in Los Alamos. The town has created an historic park around some of the residences used in the Manhattan Project. Los Alamos is pretty remote ( I guess this was one of the draws for a secret project) built on top of a number of mesas, produced by volcanic outflows from the Valles Caldera (there you go a little factoid - don’t say I never give you anything other than random waffle!). Another interesting fact: Los Alamos never had a name during the Manhattan Project and was just referred to as The Hill. Damn, I am on factoid fire today!

On the way into the town I spot the iconic main gate to the Manhattan Project site (although I later discover that this is just a reconstruction). The Manhattan Project Historic Park has a museum and a number of the original houses. It turns out that living conditions for most of the people the project were very basic, but the chief scientists and high ranking military personnel got to live on Bathtub Row, so named because (you guessed it) these where the only houses with bathtubs.

This was Oppenheimer’s pad:

Apparently they need $2 million to be able to open it to the public. I suggested that they should tap up Christopher Nolan for it.

The staff here were very friendly and helpful, possibly a little too keen to impart their knowledge. If you have ever been to a National Trust property and been collared by one of the volunteer pensioners who are just happy to be out and have someone to speak to, it was a bit like that.

And I’m sure that the father of the atom bomb would be delighted to know that he has now been immortalised as a bobble head.

True to form with my general trip planning and timings, I was informed that if I was to be in Los Alamos tomorrow, they were having one of their occasional tours of the buildings where the bombs were put together - not enough of a draw to make me go back tomorrow, rather than going to Chaco Canyon. Apparently twice a year, they also let people visit the Trinity site (where the first test bomb was detonated), should irradiated wastelands be your thing.

I was just about to plot my route to my hotel for the evening when I spotted that the Bandolier National Monument was not far away. Might as well maximize the use of that National Park pass. This is quite a spectacular canyon, containing the ruins of ancestral Puebloans dwellings - both ground based and cliff dwellings.

One of the main attractions is a cave dwelling set in a cliff accessible only by some steep steps and a series of ladders. I am tempted, but my knee has been giving me gyp and hell, I’ve been in caves. I’ll just take in the view from the ground.

And so time to head for the accommodation for the evening. I am on a mission to try out some of the budget chains to see how much costs can be kept down on this sort of trip. Tonight’s treat it Motel 6. Hmmm. Well the room is fine - at least the second one that they gave me. The first one hadn’t been cleaned and I walked in to an unmade bed and dirty towels strewn around. The staff at reception were friendly and quickly rectified matters, but the general feel of the place was less than salubrious. I always prefer to be able to communicate with reception staff without a barrier with just an opening to pass keys through. I think I have a few other chains to try before I get back to Motel 6 again!